If coffee is synonymous with streaking morning light, then the warm glow of streetlights coming to life goes hand in hand with the nighttime equivalent, a glass of beer. Craft breweries have grown exponentially in the last decade. Around 7,500 breweries have opened across the U.S., and Spearfish is home to three of them. Each of the three has a distinctly different aesthetic and taste, begging the question of which has the best brew. Beer isn’t as simple as reviewing a cup of coffee. Lagers, IPAs and sours only scratch the surface of the varying styles available. While consuming these different styles in my studio apartment, I decided craft lagers would be the target of this first go-around. Like last time, one sniff, one sip and a score out of ten.
Sawyer Brewing
Sawyer Brewing opened in 2018 and is located on the banks of Spearfish Creek. The relatively young brewery quickly became a new favorite to many in the area. Lacquered wood covers every square inch of the building, with a large wooden bar filled with epoxy resin standing out amongst the rest.
Sawyer was the first stop on my beer odyssey, the sound of glass clinking and people talking louder than necessary filled my ears while walking to an open table in the corner. A waiter came over immediately with a beer menu in hand. Listed right at the top was the Premium Craft Lager, I ordered a tall glass and sat back in the chair.
My eyes traced the cabin aesthetic, locking onto various toys perched in random locations. A plastic dinosaur looked down on me from a window trim above. Batman stared at me from across the bar, sitting on the edge of a clock, and a Hot Wheel was parked on a truss in the opposite corner. It was at that moment that I noticed the complete lack of TVs. Sawyer Brewing isn’t a sports bar, it’s a community. The cold glass sat on the table in front of me with a golden hue. After lifting the brew to my nose and taking a sniff, I looked up to see my waiter trying to hold back a laugh – apparently, people smelling their beer isn’t very common at Sawyer. The lager had more of a distinct smell than other lagers I’ve had, and it had a slightly sour note, which was unexpected.
The sip further solidified the sour smell, leaving a pleasant aftertaste. This “Premium Craft Lager” tasted unlike any other lager I’ve consumed in a good way, most are smooth, while this one contained a slight tartness to it.
Spearfish Brewing Co.
When walking into Spearfish Brewing Co., you are immediately greeted with a clean, sterile, white-light aesthetic. It was a complete contrast to the stuffy, warm interior of Sawyer. Only one friendly bartender was there to greet me. Minutes later, he stood at my table offering tastes of all they have to offer. Listed at the top left was the Veneer Beer, a light American Lager. Again, I ordered a tall glass.
Soon after, the brew was in my hand. Smooth, traditional notes of rice struck my nose – much like a Miller. The first sip was fantastic. The perfect amount of flavor and smoothness created one of the best simple lagers I have ever tasted.
Upon having a conversation with the bartender, I learned that every beer they brew starts with using reverse osmosis to purify the water before artificially adding minerals to the purified water to match different types of water found around the world. The brewing process can only begin once the water is considered perfect. This attention to detail can be tasted with every sip.
Crow Peak
First opened in 2007, Crow Peak is the oldest brewery located in Spearfish. This history can be felt the moment you walk through the big glass doors. Large, round tables fill the open space with paintings inspired by the surrounding hills, taking up a majority of the wall.
A lone bartender runs the whole establishment. She enthusiastically welcomed me and asked how my day was. Without asking, I could tell she’s worked there for years. I looked up and down the menu a few times, scouring for a lager that didn’t exist and having to settle for the next closest, the Canyon Cream Ale.
When going in for the sniff test, I was immediately reminded of a Coors, it had that same traditional smell as the Veneer beer, but with stronger notes of wheat and cream. After taking the first sip, I was confused. There didn’t seem to be any taste to it – like drinking a glass of water. It wasn’t until the enjoyable aftertaste formed that the redeeming qualities began to show. The Cream Ale was enjoyable, easy to drink and, overall, just a good beer.
